Hello spring! The weather was a rollercoaster this winter so it’s important you take the proper measures to prep your lawn for spring. Here’s what you can do over the next couple weeks to ensure luscious, green grass is on its way.
RAKE
First things first, you need to make sure grass doesn’t have any obstacles that will inhibit its growth. You should rake any remaining leaves and remove excessive thatch. Thatch is a layer of dead turfgrass tissue that can block off the root system and soil if it becomes thicker than 1/2 inch. A layer that is thinner than 1/2 inch doesn’t need a deep raking as some thatch is good for the soil and helps retain moisture. Pay special attention to matted areas. If you notice spots where blades of grass are stuck together, the cause could be snow mold. Thoroughly raking helps new grass get through these patches.
OVERSEED
If your lawn has bare spots, you can apply grass seed and a starter fertilizer. Fall is usually the best time for this, but if you notice your lawn is off to a rough start, it may be necessary to overseed in spring. Overseeding the entire lawn, instead of just patchy areas, helps maintain thick grass throughout the yard. Make sure the seed remains moist until it has sprouted. Five weeks after the seed has germinated, you can begin a routine with a quick-release nitrogen fertilizer.
FERTILIZING
If you did a heavy fertilizer in the fall, your lawn only needs a light feeding in the spring. Organic fertilizers can be used, such as compost or lawn clippings run through a mulching mower. If you need a heavy fertilizer in the spring, chemical fertilizers are more fast-acting. Use a spreader to ensure fertilizer is distributed evenly.
TREATING CRABGRASS
A pre-emergent herbicide should be applied to crabgrass before the end of March, or once temperatures are 60 during the day. This will prevent seeds from germinating.
MOWING
Once your grass has begun to grow, it’s time to dust off the mower. Don’t mow when the grass is wet, such as early morning before dew has dried. During the summer, mid morning or late afternoon is the best time to mow to avoid sun damage to your freshly cut grass. Don’t cut more than 1/3 the length of the grass blades in a single mowing. Doing so can stress the grass and weeds will get sunlight and grow if you cut your lawn too short. A good height is around 3 inches.
TREATING LEAF SPOTS
If your yard has brown splotches, raise your mowing height and mow more often to avoid further damage to these sensitive areas. You should avoid overwatering and aerate the soil to get better air movement. Fungicide application in spring and early summer can effectively treat leaf spot in its initial stages.
WATERING
To check your soil’s moisture level, push the pointy end of a screwdriver into the lawn. If there’s no resistance, the soil is sufficiently moist. If you have trouble pushing the screwdriver beyond 3 inches, your yard is dehydrated and needs more water. In early spring, the soil has likely retained plenty of moisture from the winter. You should only begin watering once you notice signs of growth. It needs about 1 inch of water per week during the spring— either from rain or watering. It’s important to avoid overwatering as this can lead to fungi, pests, and excessive thatch. To avoid underwatering, keep an eye out for tanning or wilting grass.